The Resurrection of the Broken Clutch

If you look at the date on this post, and the date of my last post, quite some time has passed. For those of you that support me, I’m sorry. A lot of life has happened in between the two posts, and a lot of life is still happening. As much as I want to be at home wrenching, I am out serving my country. Not being able to work on cars has made me realize how much I truly do love it. It’s all I can think about. Since I haven’t been able to physically work on my cars, I’ve been focusing my attention to planning the builds and bringing content to The Broken Clutch.

A lot has changed in my garage since my last post. I no longer have the Saab. I wanted to fix her, but I could not find an affordable,working transmission in my area. After about a year of searching, I ended up donating her to a children’s hospital. Saab’s truly are amazing cars, and I am hoping to some day have another one to wrench on. My Ford was also totaled when I got rear-ended. I currently have Old Faithful as my daily driver, my GMC Sierra. I also picked up three new projects: an 84 BMW 6 Series, an 88 Jeep XJ and a 96 Chevy C2500. My total for all three cars was $2000, so they’re going to need some work.

I have a lot planned for these cars and I am looking forward to creating content for the site during the builds. My plan for Old Faithful is to retire her as my daily driver and to build the C2500 into daily driver condition. That will be my main build when I get home. My plan for the XJ is to build it for Overlanding. I wasn’t sure what I wanted to do with the Jeep, I know I didn’t want a big rock crawler or mud bogger, but I did want some kind of 4×4 action. After some research I came across Overlanding and just fell in love with the thought of traveling and camping out on unpaved roads. My plans for the BMW is to restore it to original and give it to a family member who has fallen in love with the car.

When I get home I plan to take you through step by step each part of the build and provide tutorials not only through YouTube videos, but through blog posts like I did with the Saab. It’s a tall order, 3 project cars. But I have used my free time to find a way to be more productive and effective in builds. The Chevy will be first, because I want her as my daily. After that I will turn my attention to the XJ. During both of these builds, I will be doing little work here and there on the BMW.

It’ll be a while before I am able to start this new endeavor, but stick around, you won’t be disappointed. Until next time BC Tribe, take it easy, but get shit done.

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How To Remove 94-98 Saab 900 Alarm Immobilizer Unit

Recently my 1996 Saab 900 SE began giving me issues with it’s alarm. For some reason the FOB would not disarm the alarm, even after a fresh set of batteries. Unfortunately I had to open the door using the key which set off the alarm. To disable the horn from going off with the door open, you will need to remove fuse #23. The fuse panel is on the left hand side of the dashboard, it cannot be accessed when the door is closed. Once you’ve removed fuse #23 proceed with the steps below. I hope it helps, feedback is always welcomed and if you have questions or need help feel free to comment and I will respond as soon as possible. Thank you!

Step 1. Remove the plastic door sill from the drivers side. Use a screw driver or trim removal tool and carefully pry under the door sill, start at one corner and work your way across.

DriverDoorSill

Step 2. Once the driver side door sill is removed, you will have to remove the 4 torx bolts (T40) holding in the seat. There are 4 bolts, one in each corner around the seat. The images below show the location of each bolt starting with the top left corner of the seat as if you were sitting in it, then the top right corner, then the bottom left corner and finally the bottom right corner.

Bolt1

Bolt2

Bolt3Bolt4Once the 4 bolts have been removed the seat can be tilted back or removed completely once the electrical connector under the seat has been disconnected.

Step 3: Pull up on the carpet from where the carpet met the drivers side door sill. You should see the alarm immobilizer unit. It might be plastic or metal depending on the year. There are 2 nuts (10mm), one on each side that need to be removed and the electrical connector disconnected before the unit can be removed.

bolt

That’s it you have removed your immobilizer unit! Installation is the reverse of removal. Thank you and if you have questions feel free to comment.

 

 

 

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